When doing a build like this a few things need to be considered and rectified prior to doing this build. There were small differences between the older ford 302’s and the newer EFi ones. These are the things to notate and fix.
The rest of the items you see are pretty straight forward when it comes to building your new 302. Email me with any questions. I will help.
Use these torque specifications as a reference when building your budget 302. When using ARP bolts, follow their specifications always.
|Bolts or Parts||Lube or Sealer||Torque to:|
|Main Caps||Engine Oil||70 ft-lbs.|
|Outer Main Cap Bolts||Engine||40 ft-lbs.|
|Connecting Rod 260, 289, 302||Engine Oil||25 ft-lbs.|
|Cylinder Heads||Use Sealer||70 ft-lbs.|
|Rocker Arms||Engine Oil||20 ft-lbs.|
|Oil Pump||Engine Oil||25 ft-lbs.|
|Oil Pan||Engine Oil||15 ft-lbs.|
|Camshaft Thrust Plate||Thread Locker||10 ft-lbs.|
|Cam Bolt (upper gear)||Thread Locker||40 ft-lbs.|
|Front Cover||Engine Oil||20 ft-lbs.|
|Intake Manifold w/ GT40||Non- Hardening Sealer||25 ft-lbs.|
|Valve Cover||Engine Oil||10 ft-lbs.|
|Flexplate (Automatic)||Thread Locker||85 ft-lbs.|
|Flywheel (Clutch)||Thread Locker||85 ft-lbs.|
|Clutch Pressure Plate||Thread Locker||35 ft-lbs.|
|Center bolt (Harm. Balancer)||Thread Locker||90 ft-lbs.|
|Bellhousing||Engine Oil||25 ft-lbs.|
This image is fairly common around the net but is a good reference. You may use the image however you like.
These are the steps I take to plug the engine block dipstick hole. This method works and is very inexpensive. This method is permanent and never leaks.
This is a brass NPT 1/8″ plug. Tap the threads and set the plug with RTV on the threads. After, turn the block over and add RTV sealer into the hole and feather out to make a clean finish.
DO NOT: Use a cork, wood, or any other foreign materials. Use a plug and do it right.